Every time I woke from a less than deep sleep with the sound of raindrops on the tent wall I envisioned a wet, cold, windy hike up to the highest peaks other than Day 1 Katahdin on my AT journey so far. At 3:00am I wondered if the best strategy would be to stay in the Safford Notch Camp all day, let the storm pass and hike up and over the Bigelows the next day when the weather forecast was very nice. The alarm at 4:30am ended my sleep for good and I prepared for a day of wet hiking. Putting on rain gear and packing a rain-soaked tent was the priority. Surprisingly, as I walked through the campsite area to locate the privy, I felt no raindrops! It was, I assumed, just temporary until the 100% cloud cover would let loose rain again.
See my current location:
Bill and Tony led the way southbound at 6:45am. The early start would hopefully result in a late afternoon arrival in the trail town of Stratton, Maine. The ascent of 1800 feet on wet, slippery rocks and roots began! The first summit, windswept Bigelow Avery Peak (4088’) required a careful approach to avoid being pulled down by the full force of 50 mph wind. Unlike yesterday there were no views from the top. Instead, a slate-like sky of gray extended infinitely. Only stunted trees a few feet high grew there.
There were two more peaks to ascend in the next two miles. Thankfully the weather stayed mostly rain-free. “We are so fortunate that it’s not raining right now,” I proclaimed to Bill and Tony. The most difficult task was seeing through lenses that were fogging while the wind attempted to send them flying off my face. Bigelow West Peak presented the same challenges and was about 100 feet higher and perhaps even more windy.
Descending the mountains was bouldery and slick. Preventing injury going down boulders and roots requires intense concentration. Descending is more mental and less physical. After two minor slips on the rocks Tony suggested taking some rest time to regroup.
It took us nearly nine hours to hike 10.4 miles. The painfulness of the day is quantifiable: 3,300 feet up, 4,280 feet down. It was a big day on the AT, a day I would describe successful as I drank a cold beer before dinner at the White Wolf Inn. Will the trail for the next three days be just as hard?
Apart from calling this a very rewarding hike, I should say that walking on mountain peaks with 50 mph wind is…just something severe, especially after an idyllic stroll described in “Three Summits on a Beautiful Day”. But this is adding spice and showing that a smart prepared hiker with a proper gear and proper skills can take such risks. The beer in the White Wolf must have been a pleasant bonus after completing this challenging task! Stay smart, strong and safe!
Way to go Roger! It appears you successfully navigated a treacherous portion on the trail. I appreciate your trail and weather descriptions. Keep it Up!
Sincerely,
John Walker
I am so glad you are getting a taste of Northern New England hiking! Gotta love wet, gnarly, vertically, steep trails. Never measure daily mileage in this neck of the woods, where 5 miles/day can be a good day…. Northern section of the Long Trail is a good example. You are making great progress! I cannot wait until you get in the neighborhood, as you will need some good Vermont ale! Stay safe, and have fun!
Brownie
PS: I hope to do the final section I need of the Long Trail next week to become an official End to Ender (Vermont talk meaning a complete hike)!
Wow what I tough day, keep up the intense concentration. Different challenges on the AT!
Looks like you are on a great trip. Sure looks hard in places. Pretty big rocks in some places to climbwhat a journey. Very Best Marian