Sturgeon Bay, June 7, 2025, by Roger Carpenter / Greg in Wild
Near the finish of my previous three long-distance thru-hikes, I met with unexpected encounters with wildlife. I considered those moments to be omens for strong and fulfilling finishes to the hikes. On the PCT in 1996, a deer and a rabbit lingered in my final campsite. On the CDT in Glacier National Park, three deer watched as I hiked nearby, never showing fear of my presence. On the Appalachian Trail in 2021, I heard the familiar sound of a Roufus Spotted Towhee, a species closely related to the Spotted Towhee I see daily at home in Oregon. When I saw the Towhee in the brush near a rock outcrop just one day before reaching the end of my AT hike, I knew the karma was alive on the AT, too! On June 4, I watched and listened carefully for a transcendent moment along the Kewaunee River.
At 7:30 a.m. on the 4th, I looked ahead through the foggy, smoky morning air and noticed a deer about 100 feet away. It is not unusual to see deer early in the morning. But this deer was running TOWARDS me. The doe stopped and continued slowly, coming even closer before stopping again. I watched as the doe bobbed its head up and down, refusing to budge. During the full minute of our staredown on the Ahnapee Trail, I smiled knowing this beautiful animal was sending karma my way, wishing me well for the rest of my Ice Age Trail journey and the days after I finished.
A few miles later, in a park outside of Kewaunee, I ate a serving of Cindy’s granola and washed it down with a vending machine soft drink. The granola was my breakfast every day on the trail, and perhaps the healthiest and most nutritious food I ate on the trail. The soda was an opportunistic treat!
For the rest of the day, my goals were simple: walk through the towns of Kewaunee and Algoma, buy a few items at a grocery store, and hike 24 miles to the Ahnapee Shores Campground. Prior to arriving at the campground, I met several nice people who noticed my backpack. Dan, who owned a beautiful house and property along the road north of Kewaunee, stopped his truck to ask if I owned the pickup truck parked on the side of the road. “I know it belonged to a hiker,” he said. “It’s not mine, but they are probably ahead somewhere.” Dan told me he loves hunting and taught his daughter the proper way to use a hunting rifle. “She became a sniper for the military,” he said, gushing with pride. Dan offered to let me camp on his land, just like the woman who owned a beautiful farm with her husband the prior day. I was in Door County, where “the farms seems to look better,” I told the woman farmer.
While in Algoma, I met the owners of the white pickup truck. Bill and Kathy were hiking the IAT in segments. On the outskirts of Algoma, a man handed me a bottle of delightfully chilled water and offered it to me. “I saw you earlier in town, so I waited here knowing you would show up soon! I talk to as many of the Ice Age hikers as I can. They call me Algoma Joe,” he said. “I will finish the trail tomorrow. I need all the good karma I can get. Thanks, Algoma Joe!” I said as I got back on the Ahnapee R2T.
Joe reminded me of the many people who extended their hospitality, kindness, and generosity to me. In two and a half months, I witnessed the pride Wisconsin residents have for the IAT. During conversations in town and on the trail, many folks told me about the segments they have hiked and the ones they will hike next, even if it takes years. The Ice Age Trail is an icon for the state of Wisconsin. Want proof? Residents can get the Ice Age Trail license plate adorned with the Woolly Mammoth, the symbol for the trail. I saw the plates on numerous vehicles.
That evening, I showered at the campground, cooked a simple dinner on the luxurious picnic table, and enjoyed the slice of carrot cake I purchased in Algoma. I was excited for what the final day would be like. On June 5 at 4 a.m. the alarm buzzed on my sportswatch, I sat up immediately and prepared for Day 74 and 23 miles of hiking on mostly flat ground.
I started with 3 liters of water, a sweater under my jacket, and the blue knit cap I purchased four years ago on the AT. It did not take long for the warming of the sun to burn off the fog and lift the smoke originating from the wildfires in Canada. After sneezing many times, I concluded the smoke was the most obvious evidence of man-made climate change I witnessed on the IAT. The air quality index was in the unhealthy range.
The mosquitoes were persistent in some places. The temperature rose, and the Ahnapee R2T was arrow straight and monotonous. I struggled mentally only because I had a sense of urgency to reach Sturgeon Bay, and my body was unable to deliver me there fast enough. I took off my headphones and did the zen thing. Every step was progress towards that goal. I looked and listened to nature.
I reflected on my experiences and what I saw, heard, and felt: Beavers, geese, ducks, swans, Badger, muskrat, snow geese, woodpeckers, deer, Sandhill cranes, herons. The hoots of many owls, howls of Coyotes, perhaps wolves, too. Freezing temperatures, frozen lakes, icy streams, snow, the tracks of animals, maybe even wolf tracks, snow falling, rain falling, strong, freezing wind. Barren trees, broken, fallen trees, emerging growth, and wildflowers, but also ticks in May and mosquitoes in June. I learned about hummocks, eskers, tunnels, and other geological features created by the melting glacial ice 10,000 years ago. While hiking 1,153 miles, I ascended 70,500 feet. That is only 60 feet per mile, but averages are deceiving. There were ten days with over 100 feet per mile, which is still tame compared to the Appalachian Trail. The IAT in the Northern Unit of Kettle Moraine did not feel tame!
At 9 miles from terminus, I began to feel cool onshore breezes, indicating I was getting close to Sturgeon Bay. Later, at a restaurant with bakery treats, I stocked up on cookies for camp. I entered the west waterfront area of town, passed the Woolly Mammoth sculpture, walked residential streets, and soon entered Potawatomi State Park. The sometimes rocky trail in the park was crafted along two steep areas with precisely placed steps made of rock. Oh, I was so close! Minutes later, at 4:55 p.m., I saw saw the big rock with the embedded IAT terminus plaqued. I made it!
I felt great, relaxed, and satisfied that I hiked the IAT well. Long distance hiking can reveal more about ourselves than we previously knew. It can reveal pain but can also turn back the clock and create a youthful feeling and attitude. I was fortunate. The IAT challenges the mind on those long roadwalks, but the experiences in the glacial moraines made those miles on the shoulders worth it. Thank you, Ice Age Trail and the people of Wisconsin!
Greg in Wild Hikes On! What’s next? I have a date on June 12 with Cindy, who completed the Portuguese route on the Camino de Santiago this week. We will fly together from Minneapolis to Portland! Good times!
Congratulations Roger!