November 14, Day 145: The highest shelter on the AT on a very cold night.

Despite not posting for days I am doing very well on the AT.  On November 21 I reached mile 1918.2 and landed in Hot Springs, North Carolina!  I have hiked 87.5% of the trail and have just 275 miles remaining.  The five month anniversary of the start of this long, long journey comes in just two days.  The length of time and the diverse collection of emotions, challenges, good karma and accomplishments is foremost in my mind.  I am very fortunate! 

This post is about a memorable day in the Roan Mountain Highlands.  It was good practice for the Smokies which I will reach on about November 25.

When I left the comforts of the Mountain Harbour Hostel on November 14, and the best breakfast on the AT, I was aware the highest shelter to camp in along the entire trail was 16 miles ahead and nearly 6,000 feet of climbing.  I questioned the wisdom of trying to reach such a distance and elevation gain after eating a full meal and getting a late start.  Plan A was a much lower shelter in 11 miles.  But when I reached it I predicted I could make it to the Roan High Knob Shelter at around 6pm, just 30 minutes after sunset.  I would have my headlamp ready! This was Plan B, and I went for it.

As I climbed through the balds, large hilltops with no trees, I enjoyed expansive views in the brisk, windy air and below a surprising deep blue sky.  This area is known as the Roan Highlands.  I enjoyed the day climbing up and down these hills.  The late afternoon clouds and chilly wind became something to deal with because the elevation of my destination was 6,250 feet. Surely, any discomfort I felt in the moment would be much worse higher up.  Two balds, Jane Bald and Round Bald, were viewing platforms for the distant mountains north and south. At about 4:30pm, just one hour before sunset, I saw day hikers on these balds!  I imagine the sunset would be incredible but I was more concerned with reaching the safety of the shelter given the declining temperature, encroaching clouds and creeping darkness. There were even two wedding parties having photos taken, for the great backgrounds I guess.  Again, I pushed ahead and across the paved road at Carvers Gap where the day hikers and soon-to-be-married couples were parked.

With Headlamp turned on I discovered the 1.5 mile trail and 750 foot ascent to the Roan High Knob Shelter was very easy.  Mostly along an old roads, the trail was wide, not steep, and through a dense pine tree forest which blocked the cold wind.  I reached the shelter at 6pm, the time I predicted. Up there, though, the wind was colder and stronger.  I opened the creaky wood door to discover two southbound hikers with there camp stoves heating pots of food.  I had met Bullseye at the hostel the evening before.  A very strong hiker, he arrived at least one hour before I did.  Colleen was also a southbound thru hiker who had a hammock as part of her sleep system.  We were fortunate the shelter had four walls with a door that more or less kept the cold wind from penetrating the interior. The sound of the frigid wind blowing through the pine trees outside only served to make me apprehensive about venturing back to the trail the next morning before sunrise. 

After barely sleeping warm enough I woke and boiled water for hot tea to get my body core warmer.  Colleen complained of hypothermia.  I asked her how she insulated the bottom of her hammock.  “I put my extra clothes under the sleeping bag,” she explained.  Without saying so, I thought, “not enough.” 

Bullseye was the first to go back to the trail, and I followed 15 minutes later.  Colleen would wait until it warmed a little.

Traces of snow were everywhere along the trail but nothing measurable. Columns of ice pushed upwards where damp soil was yesterday. Where trickles of water flowed over rocks yesterday it was ice today.  Icey fog on my glasses obscured my vision.  I made every headlamp-lit step with extreme caution.  The first several miles were downhill and I had to make gravity my friend, not the cause of a slip and injury.  I looked for sunshine and by late morning I got my wish.  The Roan High Knob Shelter is the highest shelter along the entire trail.  It gave me a memorable experience!