Day 11, July 3: More Thoughts on Hiking the 100 Mile Wilderness

On a day I rested in Monson, Maine the experience of hiking through a beautiful, mountainous forest dotted with lakes, ponds and streams sunk in deeply. One reason I hike is to check in with the natural world and see the good things growing and living apart from the developed world. I also watch for warning signs that human activity is creating problems for the natural world. It is true the “100 Mile Wilderness” is not a federally protected wilderness where humans are only brief visitors who leave no structures on the land. Instead, this vast area in Maine was logged heavily a century ago, and not many of the old growth pine trees remain. But efforts by the state of Maine, the Nature Conservancy and private land owners have been very successful at keeping the area looking very pristine and attractive for people who live and visit a state where the license plates on cars declare it is a “vacation land.” The few gravel roads I encountered had little or no traffic.

From the summit of Whitecap Mountain a carpet of forests is all I could see.
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Days 5 to 10, June 27 to July 2: Finishing the 100 Mile Wilderness, Maine

For several days the weather was unseasonably warm and very humid…no, steamy! But I felt fortunate to not suffer the extreme heat event back home in the Pacific Northwest.

June 30, the most challenging day so far. Steep, bouldery ascents, rain showers and the strong taste of the Maine AT!

 

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Day 4, June 26, 100 Mile Wilderness

Left lovely camp at 630am. Climbed about 600 feet to Nesuntabunt Mtn 1520.  The rest of the morning was hiking along Nahmakanta Lake.  Here, the trail made agonizing steep climbs and equally steep descents from and to the shore.  The lake has no homes or developments along the shore of the four mile long lake. 

Nahmakanta Lake, about four miles long.
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Day 3, June 25, 100 Mile Wilderness

The AT this far north is showing signs of its real self. The rocks on the trail are bigger and more numerous. Same with the roots. After an early start at 6:30am, feeling fresh, I ascended to Rainbow Mtn. at 1550′ where I caught some nice views while eating some of Cindy’s nutritious granola. I have hiked 33.6 miles since starting the journey.

Resting on Rainbow Mtn. in 100 Mile Wilderness
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Anticipation

Been there, done that when it comes to attempted thru-hikes. In 1995 I started but terminated a PCT hike, and victoriously returned to the same trail in 1996. I worked hard for 20 years until a layoff from my employer became a gifted opportunity to thru-hike the Continental Divide Trail in 2016. With 5,500 miles of thru-hiking experience I did not understand the nervousness I felt when I carefully stepped off the Amtrak Lake Shore Limited at Boston South Station on June 20. The train was one hour late at 9:00pm, and the lack of daylight on the deserted downtown Boston streets unfamiliar to me did nothing to sooth my nerves. In just three days I will begin the 2,193 mile southbound hike of the AT, another unfamiliar route.

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A few stories about my gear for the AT SOBO Thru-hike

My backpack for the Appalachian Trail will contain essential items and a few more that will ensure I get sufficient rest, minimal hassles, eat great tasting food, keep the bears from eating my great tasting food, and take great photos. 

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Scenes from the last two training hikes for the AT

For my last two hikes before starting the AT on June 23 I wanted steeper, higher and farther than my previous outings.  The Mt Defiance trail climbs about five miles from the Columbia River to the summit at 4954′.  The wonderful view of Mt. Hood is not altered by the constant, low level hum of the communication tower equipment.   No worries…I was there for the conditioning and not a wilderness experience.

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An Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike!

I was enjoying the cool serenity and the green lushness that is typical of the month of May during one of the many hikes I have been doing in the Portland-area Tryon Creek Natural Area. I stopped walking when I saw the 25-foot high branch in a tree along the trail, grabbed a 50-foot neon green rope attached to a small stuff sack loaded with a small rock, strategically swung the rock/stuff sack and released the rope with precise timing to hurl the weighted end up and over the branch. Once the weighted end of the rope fell to the ground and was properly draped over the branch, I whispered “awesome!” But I was not alone. As I proudly looked at the neon green rope, now hanging conspicuously from the branch, a woman asked, “are you pruning?” Feeling a little embarrassed and self-conscious while tugging the dangling cord I honestly confessed, “I am practicing my bear hang technique for my hike of the Appalachian Trail next month! No bear will steal my food at night!”

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CDT August 23-27: Yellowstone to Idaho and Montana borders

ENTERING THE FINAL STATE, MONTANA. I left Yellowstone on August 23 along very easy-going trail, but through a large burned area. Before leaving the National Park, however, I crossed the state line between Wyoming and Idaho, a state which the CDT merely straddles with Montana. Wyoming was very good to me. I entered the state with my injured knee a huge concern, and the mellow trails allowed the pain to subside, at least temporarily. I passed by the border with a slight expression of satisfaction, more interested in making more miles that day.

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While at the Sawtelle RV park overnight I decided to take an alternate route to the next resupply town, Lima, Montana. This allowed me to get to Lima in less time with less wear and tear on me. Along the way, in the Centennial Valley, I hiked over Red Rock Pass and across the border to Montana early morning on August 26.
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My choice of the alternate route was a good one. The valley featured Red Rock Wildlife Refuge, lovely ranches, birds of prey, and other wildlife such as the first fox I saw on the entire hike. I still had to be “bear aware”, the same as if I was hiking the divide 2+ miles to the south and 2000 feet higher.
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I plan on taking another alternate route about five days after departing Lima. The goal is to move up my arrival in Glacier National Park in late September to avoid the possibilities of cold, snowy weather and closed or limited route options through Glacier National Park. This will involve some backroad and highway walking between Lemhi Pass (the important Lewis and Clark Expedition milestone) and Anaconda. Regardless of the route choices, GREG IN WILD HIKES ON!

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CDT August 16-22: Togwotee Pass to Yellowstone NP

GRIZZLIES, GEYSERS AND A VERY NICE HIKE:  On August 16 I reached Brooks Lake, a large lake in the Teton Wilderness, I read signs posted by the Forest Service warning of grizzlies and how to deal with encounters. I was extra cautious while hiking. This included daily practice quick-drawing the bear spray, talking frequently to a possible unsuspecting bear, not cooking in camp and hanging food 300 feet away from my tent at night. Being confident with the potential for bear encounter allowed me to enjoy the mountains, river valleys and mostly mellow trail.
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