According to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy the West Virginia portion of the AT is only 25 miles. After hiking 9 miles today I expect my stay in the state will end tomorrow! Virginia, the next state going southbound, has the most distance of all 14 states along the trail.
The area near the border with Pennsylvania and Maryland is called Penn-Mar. The border is also considered the Mason-Dixon line. It is one of many historically significant points of interest along the AT. Because I camped only one mile from the Penn-Mar border the previous night I reached it very early in the morning. Thus, my short journey through Maryland began on October 1.
Several transitional events are worth describing. First, my father-in-law Bill took me back to the AT after two nights in Gettysburg. One thing is certain when I am in the company of Bill: there is excellent food and great wine to be enjoyed! We also explored the Gettysburg National Military Park Museum. The AT traverses places that are important to the history of the U.S., and for me understanding the history of Gettysburg reinforced the importance of the historical context of the AT.
I am cruising through the southern and less “Rocksylvania-like” portion of the AT in Pennsylvania! Great weather, help from trail angel & friend Jeff Zimmerman, smooth trail and a visit to Gettysburg with my father-in-law Bill Kleinegger made these six days very pleasant.
From the cozy dryness of the shelter I heard the wind blown tree branches as they hit the forest floor with a snap or a thud. I could tell through the darkness it was raining but not hard, not yet. The weather forecast predicted heavy rain to begin around the time I would say goodbye to the safety of the shelter and face the dragons I expected to encounter on a day like today. At 6:45am, the time of the sunrise, I ventured to the trail without doubt or hesitation.
Mostly the hiking through Pennsylvania has become more routine with little drama. As usual the trail is often embedded with rocks, but there have been sections of easy, rockless trail to speed along on. My daily mileage is consistently between 16 and 20. Moreover, my body is becoming more like thru-hiker and capable of hiking more miles per day. This is good because I will need to move south at a faster pace than the first 90 days to ensure I reach Springer Mtn no later than mid-December. I feel confident in my ability to complete this trail! I need to be careful to avoid injuries. Even though I hike solo I meet interesting people and hikers. I am not lonely out here!
This part of the Pennsylvania AT looks easy on the topo map: Mostly level terrain at 1500 feet above sea level. There are some tough areas that involve a lot of rocks, then more and bigger rocks, and sometimes boulder fields. In between these places are marvelous, easy, level trail that is as easygoing as a neighborhood walk at home. Today had some drama, though. Because the AT stayed mostly on the top of the 1500′ ridge there were no on-trail streams or springs. Even good campsites were without water sources. I found one good spring that was about 15 miles from a shelter that was near water. And if I chose to camp there I would need to hike 21.7 miles for the day, including a sketchy bouldery descent for over 500 feet down to the Lehigh River highway bridge. In the morning, after loading my backpack with 3 liters of water (6 pounds) I was up to the task of going all 21.7 miles. It really depended on the trail conditions.
A heavy thunderstorm shook and drenched Deleware Water Gap last night. At first light walked out of the hotel and dodged wide puddles on the way to the AT. Knowing this part of the trail will be rocky I watched my footing carefully, although the first eight miles were surprisingly mellow and mostly absent of the rocks I am expecting in Pennsylvania.
The rock outcrops were dry early in the morning which helped me reach the New York / New Jersey border without stress. At 7:50am it was too early to be concerned about poisonous snakes warming themselves on sun-heated rocks. I was optimistic about the next five days of hiking in New Jersey. With a feeling of newness I enjoyed the music made by the wind blowing playfully through the hardwoods, bringing cooling air across my face. It was a good sign. Cool wind meant the mosquitoes might be grounded, but before long they took flight and attacked aggressively. I planned to resupply later in Warrick with insect repellent on the top of my shopping list. Before shopping for food and repellent I set up my tarp at the Warwick, NY Drive-In Theater, which allows AT hikers to camp free and watch the movies on three screens.
Oh, did I want to escape from New York, on the Appalachian Trail that is! Without coming off as negative, defeated or seeming like my resilience was wearing thin, I felt fatigued by the nature of the terrain and the accumulation of miles without sufficient rest. On September 6, one day after a 16.7 mile day on very tedious trail, I decided a mental break was just what I needed. I was struggling to stay focused on walking. Upon arriving at a highway where the Appalachian Trail Market was, I got a ride down to the small city of Peekskill to stay one night in a hotel. The break off the trail allowed me to thoroughly dry my gear and eat a large portion of pasta from a local Italian restaurant.