Day 50, August 11:  Vermont welcomes me on the AT

In Hanover and the entire region heat advisories were in the weather forecast.  Despite feeling very worn down from the numerous errands in town I directed what energy I had towards walking down Main Street Hanover to the exact busy, Dartmouth Ivy League street corner where I ended my hike the previous day.  Turning left I proceeded the roughly half mile to the bridge over the Connecticut River and the engraved letters on the ornamental monument “VT.| N.H.”  In a moment of accomplishment I looked at those letters, raised my right fist and felt the confidence I earned in New Hampshire running through my hike-strong body.  “New Hampshire AT,” I thought, “you gave me the best and worst I expected, and I walked to this place a better AT thru-hiker.  Vermont, here I come!”

Hiking from New Hampshire into Vermont felt like victory!

I celebrated 20 minutes later at a small grocery & variety store by drinking chocolate milk produced by a Vermont dairy.  Later, on trail tread in the woods, a young buck greeted me from a comfort distance.  The deer was the first large animal I have encountered since I started this adventure 50 days ago.  Moreover, I consider the presence of wildlife a sign of good luck.  I love the Vermont AT already. 

This deer is this first large four-legged animal I have seen in the first 50 days of hiking the AT.

Ever better, walking today was pure pleasure despite the 90 degrees of muggy heat!

Colors in the Vermont forest.
I made a true Stealth Camp away from the trail and out of sight from other hikers.

Days 46 – 48, August 7 to 9: Final post from New Hampshire

Brownie took me to the trailhead near Glencliff on Road 25 on Day 46, August 7.  I had another restful stay at his and Lenore’s home in Vermont, and felt energized to continue my hike.  To my total delight the AT was absent of the perils that I experienced to the north in New Hampshire.  I glided along the trail totally connected with the ground which had few if any obstacles that could inflict pain.  Nice, easy 11 mile hike.

Cloudy View from Cube Mountain
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Days 41-44, August 2 to 5: Easier hiking is ahead!

After a rainy night , then a nice 1.5 rain-free hike down to the highway at Franconia Notch, I met friend Steve Brown (Brownie).  We drove to his lovely house in Vermont where I spent two  restful and fun days off trail.  After the New Hampshire portion of the AT was challenging my joints and muscles, the stay at Brownie’s house was therapeutic.  As my first-ever visit to Vermont I became impressed with the unique rural and independent culture the state is known for.

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Days 39 and 40, July 31 – Aug. 1: Traversing the ridges to Franconia Notch

The two days featured nice climbs to high elevation to traverse several very nice ridges. I will let the photos show how pleasurable the views were, especially on August 1 when I reached Mt. Lafayette (5,260′) and Mt. Lincoln (5,089) on Franconia Ridge. With rain in the forecast for late afternoon I descended down Liberty Ridge which rises above Franconia Notch and Interstate 93. I made camp about 600′ above Franconia Notch so I can meet Steve Brown, a friend who lives in Vermont and met Cindy on the Camino in Spain in 2019.

The traverse of Franconia Ridge was wonderful in the nice weather.

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Day 38, July 30: Zealand Falls

In the middle of the rugged and steep White Mountains it is impossible to find any 8 miles of trail that is easy.  Except..for the hike I did today!  Words cannot describe the pleasurable 7.7 miles from Crawford Notch to Zealand Falls and the hut there.  It was so good the light rain showers were barely noticeable.  My arrival at 2 pm made the day feel like NERO (nearly a zero day).

Too easy today!

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Day 37, July 29: Traverse of the Presidentials in the White Mountains

The light was excellent in the crisp, early morning and made photographing the Presidential peaks a pleasure.  Unlike the evening before, the wind was calm and sun warmed me as I walked on a very nice trail.  The first peak the AT traversed was Mt. Monroe.  The views of the peaks ahead and the valleys were outstanding and helped me forget the forecasted rain late in the afternoon. I needed to keep moving to reach Highway 302 and Crawford Notch while it was dry.

Hiking towards Mt. Monroe in the early morning.

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Day 36, July 28: Mt. Washington Summit on a beautiful day

Good karma came in the outstanding weather for the hike up and beyond Mt. Washington. The photos tell the story. Sun, light winds and acceptably cool temperatures made this a special day on the AT. At the visitors center I celebrated by eating cookies made by my lovely wife Cindy (trail name Snake Maiden).

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Days 34-35, July 26 and 27: Climbing to the Presidential Range in New Hampshire’s White Mountains

Day 34, July 26 is forgettable and I will not write about it except to say my knees took a beating on the torturous descent from 4,050’ Wildcat D Mountain to 2,090’ Pinkham Notch, which has an AMC Visitor Center. From there, the fun of following the AT high above treeline to the Presidential Range started in mild, calm, sunny weather.  It was my good fortune to have such a day because hiking in the Presidentials in cold, rainy and windy conditions can be perilous. 

See my current location and daily log of my progress on the trail.

Continue reading “Days 34-35, July 26 and 27: Climbing to the Presidential Range in New Hampshire’s White Mountains”

Day 33, July 25: Higher in the White Mountains.

I wanted to avoid hiking the steep ascent before rain started falling after 9 or 10 in the morning. At 6:00 am the air was still calm as I walked past the shelter, but the smell of cigarette smoke wafting from that area reaffirmed my preference for sleeping in my tent.  I bolted from Imp Campsite back to the trail where I faced a series of five 4,000 foot-plus summits and rain in the forecast.

Continue reading “Day 33, July 25: Higher in the White Mountains.”

Day 32, July 24: Entering the White Mountains!

The summer-like weather was perfect for my first experience in the White Mountains.  So many people I know who have hiked the AT told me how beautiful the Whites are and how challenging the AT will be there.  The crown of the Whites is Mt. Washington (6,288’) which I expect to climb on July 28.  Without hesitation, I walked an easy former road for a couple of miles before reasonably easy rock steps became a little more challenging and required some handholds to pull me up.  Despite the ideal conditions I felt sluggish, perhaps from not enough sleep in Gorham.  I was happy I planned a relatively short day, 8.1 miles, but it included over 3,600 feet of ascent.  I had to be extra careful as I climbed toward Mt. Mariah, the 4,049’ Peak that was the high point of the day.

Near Mt. Moriah looking toward Mt. Washington in the White Mountains.

The views from Mt. Moriah included my first clear look at Mt. Washington, which appeals to tourists as much as AT hikers and climbers.  Options to reach the summit include automobile, bus and a cog railway, and the AT! The road was visible from my vantage point near the summit of Mt. Moriah.

My first good view of Mt. Washington.
A mostly sunny day that felt like summer.

To reach my destination, Imp Campsite I descended about 900 feet in 2 miles and was very careful again.  I reached camp at about 3:30 pm, which is quite early for a thru-hiker.  But I needed a nap.  The Imp camp host brought a couple of hikers to a space adjacent to my tent because there were more hikers than capacity for the campsite.  Waken from my nap I got busy preparing my dinner and getting ready to go back to sleep after a tiring day.  Just 8 miles but a lot of clumsy walking.  Weather forecast for tomorrow is rain in the late morning, so I need to get an early start.

The overflow area at Imp Campsite.